Stories

TASONI ARCHIVE

UNDERCOVER

Undercover has never operated within a single category or aesthetic. Since founding the label in 1990, Jun Takahashi has built a world that moves freely between fashion, art, music, film, subculture, and fantasy, often collapsing them into the same garment. The TASONI Archive: Undercover Edit traces that breadth through a curated selection of pieces drawn from pivotal collections, collaborations, and moments across the brand’s evolving history.

The Undercover x Valentino UFO sweatpants and matching cashmere coat reflect one of Takahashi’s recurring fascinations: the tension between luxury craftsmanship and surreal imagery. UFO graphics drift across refined tailoring and cashmere construction, creating pieces that feel simultaneously polished and slightly uncanny.

Elsewhere, the silk top introduces a more fragile and eccentric side of the label. Layered textures, unexpected proportions, and intricate detailing push femininity into stranger territory, while the embroidered shirt brings narrative and craftsmanship into sharper focus through dense floral motifs and carefully placed imagery.

Outerwear has long been central to Undercover’s language, often functioning as both clothing and visual statement. The rain parka, inspired by 2001: A Space Odyssey, transforms science fiction references into something diagrammatic and technical, while the nylon puffer jacket channels a sharper, more graphic energy through bold color blocking and sculptural construction.

Music has also remained deeply embedded within Takahashi’s practice. The pyramids sweatshirt from Undercover’s Pink Floyd capsule translates the band’s visual mythology into a dreamlike landscape, blurring the line between merchandise, artwork, and collectible fashion object.

Throughout the selection, references unfold in layers. Cindy Sherman’s exploration of identity and constructed image appears not only as inspiration, but through prints and embellishment integrated directly into the garments themselves. Film, horror, futurism, punk, and romanticism all coexist within the same universe, often within the same collection.

Rather than arriving at a fixed identity, Undercover continues to shift between moods and perspectives. Some pieces lean cerebral, others playful or emotional, others grounded in utility or technical construction. Together, they offer a broader portrait of a label that has consistently resisted simplification.

The TASONI Archive: Undercover Edit is available now, exclusively on shoptasoni.com, for a limited time. MORE STORIES